Mala Xiang Guo with Octopus, Shiitake and Greens
Sichuan dry-pot on Chiu Chow chilli oil, glazed with the octopus jar jelly, over rice
A mala dry-pot (麻辣香锅) for two. Dried chilli and Sichuan pepper are fried in oil. Chiu Chow chilli-garlic oil gives the red base. Shiitake, tenderstem broccoli and bok choy are fried hard, then glazed with the gelatin from a jar of cooked octopus. The octopus gets a short sear at the end. Lao Gan Ma goes in off the heat for crunch. There is no broth. Serve over rice.
Why the first revision
First version. Cooked on 27 October 2026. Built on Chiu Chow chilli oil and Lao Gan Ma because no doubanjiang was in the pantry. The octopus jar jelly was added as a glaze during the cook.
Mise en place
7 steps-
Put the dried shiitake in the cold water. Hold them under the water with a small plate. Soak for 30 minutes or more.
Time 30 min -
Wash the rice until the water is clear. Cook it with the water, with a lid, on the lowest heat for 12 minutes. Then rest it off the heat, with the lid on, for 10 minutes.
Time 22 min -
Drain the octopus in a sieve over a bowl. Keep 15 ml of the jar oil. Scrape the jelly from the bottom of the jar into a small bowl.
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Dry the octopus fully with paper towel. Cut large pieces to the size of one bite.
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Squeeze the shiitake over the soak bowl. Keep 15 ml of the soak liquid. Remove the stems and cut each cap into quarters.
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Put the chillies, whole peppercorns, ginger, garlic, Chiu Chow oil and sugar next to the pan. Put the ground peppercorn, Lao Gan Ma and sesame in a separate group for the finish.
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Boil the tenderstem broccoli for 60 seconds. Put it into cold water at once. Dry it fully.
Wet broccoli steams in the pan. It does not fry.
Time 1 minWork Blanching
Cook
7 steps-
Put the neutral oil and the 15 ml octopus jar oil in a cold pan. Add the chillies and whole peppercorns. Heat the oil to 150 °C. Fry until the chillies are dark burgundy, not black.
At 130 °C the chillies take too long. Above 170 °C they go black in seconds.
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Add the ginger and garlic. Fry for 30 seconds. Do not let them become brown.
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Lower the oil to 130 °C. Add the Chiu Chow oil and stir for 45 seconds, until the oil is red and smells toasted.
The garlic in this jar is already fried. It burns fast.
Temp 130 °C -
Set the heat to maximum. Fry the shiitake for 2 minutes, until the edges are brown.
Time 2 minWork Stir-frying -
Add the bok choy stems and the broccoli. Stir and toss for 90 seconds.
Work Stir-frying -
Add the bok choy leaves, the jar jelly, 15 ml shiitake soak liquid and the sugar. Toss until the leaves are soft and the liquid is a glossy coat.
Stop while the glaze is glossy. A matte glaze is starting to burn on the pan.
Work Reduction -
Push the food to the side. Put the octopus on the hot, empty part of the pan. Do not move it for 30 seconds. Then toss everything for 15 seconds.
The octopus is already cooked. More heat only makes it firm.
Work Searing
Serve
1 step-
Take the pan off the heat. Fold in the Lao Gan Ma, ground peppercorn and sesame. Taste before you add salt. Serve over the rice.
Notes
2The dish was planned on Pixian doubanjiang. None was in the pantry. Lee Kum Kee Chiu Chow chilli oil became the fried base. Lao Gan Ma peanuts in chilli oil went in at the end for crunch. The dish lost the deep fermented bean taste. It gained garlic, brightness and crunch. The shiitake soak liquid and the MSG in Lao Gan Ma replaced part of the savoury depth. The neutral oil went down from 60 ml to 40 ml because both jars bring oil. The order changed: fresh ginger and garlic now go in before the Chiu Chow oil, because its fried garlic burns fast.
Medium-low on this hob is 130 °C. At 130 °C the chillies took too long to colour. At 150 °C they reached burgundy in about 1 minute.
Provenance
Made on 27 October 2026 from what was in the pantry: tenderstem broccoli, bok choy, dried shiitake, rice and a jar of Borrelli octopus.
The science
5What is actually happening in the dish, and why the techniques work.
Octopus first gets tough as the muscle proteins contract. It gets soft again only after the collagen turns to gelatin in a long, slow cook. The jar has done that slow cook. More heat now only pushes water out and makes the muscle firm again. A dry surface and a short sear give browning on the outside and keep the inside soft. Water on the surface holds it at 100 °C, so it steams and does not brown.
Octopus skin and connective tissue hold a lot of collagen. When the octopus cooked in the jar, the collagen became gelatin. It went into the packing liquid and set when it cooled. The lemon taste is citric acid and wine vinegar from the packing liquid. Gelatin melts at about body temperature, so it is liquid at once in the hot pan. As the water boils off, the gelatin becomes a sticky film. The film holds the chilli oil on the vegetables, so the oil does not collect in the pan. The jelly also carries salt, so taste before you add more.
Guanylate (5'-GMP) gives dried shiitake most of its savoury taste. The mushroom's own enzymes make it from RNA. A cold soak, then heat in the pan, lets this happen before other enzymes break the guanylate down. Guanylate with glutamate tastes much more savoury than either one alone. The glutamate here comes from the MSG in Lao Gan Ma. This gives depth without more salt.
Chillies and oil heat together. The oil takes up capsaicin and the chilli flavour before the chilli sugars burn. Chillies put into smoking oil get bitter, black skins in seconds. Burgundy is the target colour: the roasted taste is there and nothing is burnt.
Sanshools cause the tingle and numbness of Sichuan pepper. Heat breaks them down. The whole peppercorns fried in the oil give aroma. The ground pepper at the end gives the tingle.