Botanically Brewed Mint Lemonade
Wild ginger bug, lemon oleo with juniper, blanched mint syrup, bottle-conditioned
A naturally fermented mint lemonade built on the method of Fentimans Victorian Lemonade. A wild ginger bug ferments it. An oleo saccharum with juniper gives the lemon oil. A blanched and blended mint syrup makes the mint strong. Pear juice gives balance. The lemonade gets its carbonation in closed bottles. It ends near 7.4% sugar, against 11–13% for a typical US lemonade.
Why the first revision
First version. Target: a mint lemonade in the style of Fentimans Victorian Lemonade, with less sugar than a US lemonade. Fresh lemon juice is 18% of the volume, near the 19% on the Fentimans label. An oleo saccharum with juniper gives the peel oil in place of lemon flavouring. A wild ginger bug replaces the yeast-fermented ginger extract of Fentimans, because natural fermentation was the aim. Bottle conditioning replaces forced carbonation. Blanched and blended mint, 3 parts spearmint to 1 part peppermint, makes the mint strong. Sugar only, no stevia. Speedwell and cream of tartar from the Fentimans label are left out. Scaled to 2 L. Not made yet: all sugar, pH and ABV values are calculated or estimated.
Ginger bug
6 steps- 1 A
Put 270 ml water and 65 ml pear juice in a clean 750 ml glass jar.
Tool 750 ml glass jar - 2 A
Add 20 g grated ginger and 20 g sugar. Stir until the sugar dissolves.
Work Wild fermentation - 3 A
Cover the jar with a cloth and a rubber band. Keep it at 20–24 °C, out of direct sun.
Do not close the jar. The bug must vent CO2.
Time 1 dTemp 22 °C - 4 A
Each day for 3 days, add 13 g grated ginger and 13 g sugar. Stir hard.
Stirring adds oxygen and spreads the yeast through the jar.
Time 3 d - 5 A
Check the bug on day 5 to 7. It must fizz when stirred and smell yeasty and of ginger.
Bubbles also rise without stirring. If the bug needs more days, feed 13 g ginger and 13 g sugar each extra day. Fuzzy mould on the surface means discard the bug and start again.
- 6 A
6–12 hours before blend day, add the last 13 g ginger and 13 g sugar.
Time 6 h–12 h
Lemon oleo
5 steps- 7 B
Peel the zest from 5 lemons in wide strips with a Y-peeler. Take as little white pith as possible.
Tool Y-peeler - 8 B
Put the zest, 100 g sugar and 8 cracked juniper berries in a bowl.
- 9 B
Press the mix with a muddler for 1 minute, until the sugar is damp and smells strongly of lemon.
- 10 B
Cover the bowl. Keep it at room temperature for 90 minutes.
Time 1.5 h - 11 B
Juice the lemons until you have 360 ml. Pass the juice through a fine sieve.
Pulp in the bottle causes gushing when you open it.
Tool Fine sieve
Mint syrup
8 steps- 12 C
In the last 20 minutes of the oleo, bring a large pot of water to a full boil.
Work Boiling - 13 C
Fill a bowl with ice and water.
- 14 C
Put 60 g spearmint and 20 g peppermint in the boiling water for 10 seconds.
Temp 100 °CWork Blanching - 15 C
Move the mint into the ice water at once. Leave it for 1 minute.
Time 1 min - 16 C
Lift out the mint. Squeeze it gently dry in a towel.
- 17 C
Blend the mint with 35 g sugar and 200 ml ice-cold water on high for 45–60 seconds.
Time 1 minTool Blender - 18 C
Let the mint syrup stand for 10 minutes.
Time 10 min - 19 C
Strain the syrup through a fine sieve or a nut-milk bag. Press the pulp hard.
The leaves are blanched. Hard pressing adds oil, not a grass taste.
Tool Fine sieveTool Nut-milk bag
Build
7 steps- 20 D
Pour the lemon juice over the oleo. Stir for 3–5 minutes, until no sugar grit remains.
Time 3 min–5 min - 21 D
Strain out the zest and juniper. Press them firmly.
Tool Fine sieve - 22 D
Mix the lemon syrup, the mint syrup, 200 ml pear juice and 930 ml water.
- 23 D
Taste the base. It must taste slightly too sweet. The yeast uses this extra sugar.
- 24 D
Let the base reach about 20 °C before you add the bug.
A cold base stops wild yeast.
Temp 20 °C - 25 D
Strain 265 ml liquid from the ginger bug. Leave the ginger in the jar.
To keep the bug, add water to the jar and feed it. Keep it in the fridge and feed it each week.
- 26 D
Stir the bug liquid into the base for 30 seconds.
Condition
5 steps- 27 E
Fill swing-top bottles and one PET bottle through a funnel. Leave 3 cm of space at the top.
- 28 E
Close the bottles. Keep them at 20–22 °C, out of light.
Temp 21 °C - 29 E
From 24 hours, squeeze the PET bottle each day.
Time 1 d - 30 E
Stop when the PET bottle is hard and does not dent. This takes 2–4 days.
Time 2 d–4 d - 31 E
Put all the bottles in the fridge at once. Keep them cold for at least 24 hours.
Time 1 dTemp 4 °C
Serve
5 steps- 32 F
Open the first bottle slowly over the sink.
- 33 F
Tilt the bottle one time to lift some of the sediment.
- 34 F
Pour over large ice. Slap 1 spearmint sprig and put it in the glass.
- 35 F
Twist a strip of lemon peel over the glass to release its oil.
- 36 F
Keep the lemonade in the fridge. Drink it within 1 week.
Notes
6The German label lists these ingredients, in this order: water, lemon juice from concentrate (19%), fermented ginger root extract (water, glucose syrup, ginger root, pear juice concentrate, yeast), sugar, glucose syrup, carbon dioxide, pear juice concentrate, potassium tartrate, natural flavouring, herbal extracts (speedwell, juniper berry).
- Only the ginger extract is fermented. Carbon dioxide is on the label, so the finished drink is carbonated by force.
- Manufactum describes the method as a base of fermented, mashed ginger, mixed with a syrup for each flavour. It gives residual alcohol of up to 0.5% vol.
- Fentimans says that the sweetness of pear and the herbal extracts balance the sharp, bitter taste.
- The label on fentimans.de gives 4.4 g sugars and 6.1 g carbohydrate per 100 ml. The gap is probably dextrins from the glucose syrup.
- The Rewe listing declares stevia. The low sugar value comes from the stevia.
- Other listings, without stevia, give 7.9 g and 11.7 g sugars per 100 ml.
- Fentimans does not publish the yeast strain, the temperature or the real brew time. The 7-day brew is a marketing claim.
Ingredients: sparkling water, sugar, citric acid, natural lemon flavouring with other natural flavourings, ascorbic acid, stabilisers E444 and E445, colours E160a and E150d.
- It contains no lemon juice and no ferment.
- Sugar: 8.5 g per 100 ml.
- Under EU rules, "natural lemon flavouring" must come at least 95% from lemon. "With other natural flavourings" means that less than 95% comes from lemon.
- E444 and E445 are weighting agents. They stop the citrus oil droplets from rising to the neck of the bottle.
- A German retailer describes it as mild, with little acid and high carbonation.
- The mint-lemon version uses natural mint-lemon flavourings, not leaves. It has 9.2 g sugar per 100 ml.
- Marcel-Alcide Rième created it in 1921 in Morteau.
This lemonade was not used as the model. It is kept for comparison.
- Fresh lemon juice and an oleo saccharum replace lemon concentrate and lemon flavouring. The oleo gives the peel oil that the flavouring gives in the bottle.
- A wild ginger bug replaces the yeast-fermented ginger extract. Natural fermentation was the aim.
- Bottle conditioning replaces forced carbonation.
- Fresh mint is added. Fentimans has no mint.
- Sugar only. No stevia.
- Speedwell and cream of tartar are left out.
A wild ferment does not keep to a timetable. The PET bottle shows the pressure in the glass bottles. When the PET bottle is hard, move every bottle to the fridge at once. Warm glass bottles that keep fermenting can burst. Open the first bottle over the sink.
Fentimans uses speedwell (Ehrenpreis) for a herbal, bitter note. It is not in this version. Nobody knows the dose yet. Start with a small amount in the oleo.
Measure the Brix and the pH of the base before the bug goes in. Measure them again after the cold rest. These values replace the calculated values in this recipe.
Provenance
Developed in conversation from two reference lemonades: Fentimans Victorian Lemonade and La Mortuacienne Limonade Zitrone. The Fentimans structure was chosen as the model.
Literature
13The science
16What is actually happening in the dish, and why the techniques work.
Sugar is hygroscopic. It pulls water and oil out of broken oil glands in the coloured part of the peel. The sugar crystals hold the oil on a large surface. The lemon juice then carries the oil into the drink.
Lemon oil is mostly limonene. The smell that reads as lemon comes from citral (geranial and neral). Citral is only a few percent of the oil.
The white pith contains bitter limonoids and flavanones. A Y-peeler keeps most of the pith out.
Citral is not stable in acid. It slowly cyclises and oxidises. The products, such as p-cymene and p-methylacetophenone, smell flat and medicinal. This sets the drinking window of 1 week. Commercial lemonades use stabilised flavourings and ascorbic acid to slow it. The pH is estimated. Nobody measured it.
Spearmint gets most of its aroma from (R)-(−)-carvone. The mirror-image molecule, (S)-(+)-carvone, smells of caraway.
The oil sits in peltate glandular trichomes. These are small oil sacs on the surface of the leaf. A slap breaks some of them. A blender breaks all of them. Blending is what makes the mint strong.
Broken leaf cells release enzymes. Lipoxygenase turns leaf lipids into green-leaf volatiles such as cis-3-hexenal. These smell of cut grass. Polyphenol oxidase makes the leaf brown.
A 10-second blanch denatures both enzymes before the blender breaks the cells. Carvone and menthol boil above 200 °C, so the short blanch loses little aroma. The ice water stops the cooking.
An unblanched leaf must not be squeezed or muddled for the same reason.
Acid replaces the magnesium in chlorophyll with hydrogen. This makes pheophytin, which is olive-brown. Blanching does not stop this. Over some days in the bottle, the colour goes from green to khaki. The taste does not change.
Menthol activates TRPM8, the cold receptor in the mouth and nose. The brain reads the cold as intensity. Spearmint contains little menthol. One part peppermint to three parts spearmint adds the cold without a toothpaste taste.
Wild yeasts and lactic acid bacteria live on the skin of fresh ginger. Do not peel it. The daily sugar feeds the organisms that ferment.
Yeast makes CO2 and ethanol. Lactic acid bacteria add a light sour note under the lemon.
The pear juice gives nutrients that sugar alone does not give. Fentimans also puts pear juice in its ginger ferment.
Yeast activity is highest 6–12 hours after a feed. The lemonade base is very acidic: estimated pH 2.6–2.9, not measured. Acid slows wild yeast. A weak or cold bug can stall for days. A bug at its peak starts the bottles in 2–4 days.
Each gram of sugar that yeast ferments makes about 0.49 g CO2 and 0.51 g ethanol. About 2.5 volumes of CO2 need about 5 g CO2 per litre. That uses about 10 g sugar per litre, or about 20 g in 2 L.
The base starts near 170 g fermentable sugar (8.4%). It ends near 150 g (7.4%). The ethanol is about 0.5–0.7% ABV.
All of these values are calculated. Nobody measured them yet.
CO2 carries aroma out of a liquid when it vents. The bug jar vents, so the mint never goes in it. A closed bottle cannot vent. The gas and the aroma both stay in the lemonade. Brewers add aroma hops after the main fermentation for the same reason.
CO2 dissolves about two times better at 4 °C than at 20 °C. In the fridge, gas moves from the headspace into the liquid. The bubbles become finer, and the bottle gushes less when you open it. The cold also stops the yeast.
Solid particles are nucleation sites. CO2 forms bubbles on them. Pulp in the bottle makes it gush when you open it. Pass the juice through a fine sieve.
Fentimans uses pear juice and glucose syrup. Glucose syrup contains dextrins. They add body with little sweetness.
Pear juice contains sorbitol. Saccharomyces yeast ferments sorbitol poorly, so it can stay in the drink as body. This part is a hypothesis. It is not confirmed.
Berlin tap water is hard. Its bicarbonate neutralises part of the citric acid. The lemonade then tastes less sharp. Filtered water keeps the acid.
Juniper oil is mostly alpha-pinene and myrcene. These are monoterpenes, the same family of molecules as limonene in lemon oil.
Because the molecules are related, the juniper does not taste like a separate flavour. It adds depth and a resin note inside the lemon.
Fentimans puts juniper in Victorian Lemonade for the same effect. In this recipe the juniper goes into the oleo, so the sugar pulls its oil with the lemon oil.
An oleo works for lemon because the peel has large oil glands in a thick, waxy skin. The sugar pulls the oil out slowly and cleanly over 90 minutes.
Mint is different. Its oil sits in small trichomes on a thin, wet leaf. Sugar breaks the trichomes, but in 90 minutes it also bruises the leaf cells. The bruised cells release lipoxygenase and polyphenol oxidase. The result is a grass taste and a brown colour.
Heat is also wrong. A hot steep drives off the aroma and pulls out rosmarinic acid and tannins. The result tastes like mint tea, not fresh mint.
So the mint gets its own process: a short blanch to stop the enzymes, then a hard blend in cold water.
Variations
2A variation is the same dish taken a different way. Each one keeps its own versions, and none of them replaces another. The first is the dish the rest came from.
The dish the others came from.
With supermarket dry yeast and fresh ginger instead of a wild ginger bug