Anthony Bourdain's Steak Tartare
Les Halles bistro tartare, chopped by hand and mixed at the last minute
Raw beef, chopped by hand, mixed into an emulsified base of egg yolk, Dijon mustard and oil. Anchovy, Worcestershire sauce and ketchup give savoury depth. Capers and cornichons give acid and salt. Cognac gives a warm background note. Chop the beef immediately before you mix and serve. Do not use a food processor.
Why the first revision
First version. The recipe as printed in the Les Halles Cookbook, converted to metric. Nothing is changed from the source.
Base
6 steps- 1 A
Put six dinner plates in the refrigerator to chill.
Tool dinner plates - 2 A
Put the egg yolks, the mustard and the anchovies in a large stainless steel bowl. Mix well.
Tool stainless steel bowl - 3 A
Add the ketchup, the Worcestershire sauce, the Tabasco and the black pepper. Mix well again.
- 4 A
Add the oil slowly in a thin stream. Whisk all the time.
Work EmulsifyingTool whisk - 5 A
Add the Cognac. Mix again.
- 6 A
Fold in the onion, the capers, the cornichons and the parsley.
Beef
2 steps- 7 B
Chop the beef by hand with a very sharp knife to a fine dice of approximately 3 mm. Do this last.
Do not use a food processor. A meat grinder with a wide plate is acceptable, but the knife gives the better texture.
Work MincingTool chef's knife - 8 B
Add the beef to the bowl. Mix well with a spoon or with your hands.
Serve
2 steps- 9 C
Divide the mixture among the six cold plates. Shape each portion into a disc with a ring mould or a spatula.
Tool ring mould - 10 C
Serve immediately with the fries and the toast.
Notes
1The recipe is from Anthony Bourdain's Les Halles Cookbook, published in 2004. Bourdain wrote that the restaurant was built to serve this dish. He said the beef must be fresh, chopped by hand at the last minute, and mixed at the table.
On the food processor he wrote: "do not DARE use a food processor on this dish".
The ketchup is not a modern addition. Larousse Gastronomique also puts ketchup in steak tartare.
Provenance
From Anthony Bourdain's Les Halles Cookbook (2004). This is the signature dish of Brasserie Les Halles in New York. This version is the recipe as printed, with the amounts converted to metric.
Literature
3The science
2What is actually happening in the dish, and why the techniques work.
A sharp blade cuts through the muscle fibres cleanly. Most cells stay closed, so the water, the soluble protein and the myoglobin stay inside each piece. Each piece stays separate and red.
A food processor tears and crushes the meat. Many cell membranes break. The sarcoplasm, which is the liquid inside the muscle cell, comes out and coats the meat. The result is a wet, grey paste with no separate pieces.
Cut the beef last. Myoglobin on a new cut surface starts to oxidise to metmyoglobin, which is brown. Time between the cut and the plate is time for the colour to go.
Egg yolk and Dijon mustard are both emulsifiers. Yolk gives lecithin and lipoproteins. Mustard gives mucilage from the seed coat. Oil added slowly in a thin stream forms small droplets that these molecules hold in the water phase.
The emulsion coats each piece of beef with fat. This matters more with a lean cut such as fillet, which has little fat of its own.
The Cognac goes in after the emulsion is made. Ethanol dissolves aroma compounds that water cannot carry.