Cognac

Grape brandy from the Cognac region of France, double distilled and aged in oak. It is about 40 percent alcohol. In a raw dish it does two jobs. The ethanol dissolves aroma compounds that water cannot carry. The oak ageing gives vanillin, lactones and esters, which read as a warm, sweet background. Any grape brandy replaces it at the same volume. Armagnac is closest. Whisky works but adds smoke. Dry sherry works but carries less alcohol.