Roasted San Marzano tomato soup
Split-can tomato soup with fried paste, confit garlic and chipotle, mounted with butter
Make the soup first and hold it on low. Cook the toasties last.
Cheddar, Emmentaler and mozzarella on shokupan, toasted inside first and cooked low
A grilled cheese on shokupan for 2. Cheddar gives the flavour. Emmentaler and mozzarella give the melt and the stretch, and they hold the cheddar fat in. Toast the inside faces first so the soft crumb does not go gummy. Cook at medium-low heat, because shokupan browns fast.
First version. Made to go with the roasted San Marzano tomato soup. Cheese mix of cheddar, Emmentaler and mozzarella as planned, on a tangzhong shokupan loaf.
Mix the three grated cheeses. Leave the mix at room temperature.
Cold cheese melts slower than the bread browns. Do this while the soup cooks.
Heat a dry pan on medium-low heat.
Put the cheese mix on 2 toasted faces. Close each sandwich with the toasted faces inside.
Spread the butter on the outside faces.
Cook on medium-low heat with a lid on the pan.
The lid holds heat in, so the cheese melts before the crust gets too dark.
Turn the sandwiches. Cook with no lid. Press once, gently.
Hard pressing crushes the soft crumb of the shokupan.
Put the sandwiches on a rack. Then cut them diagonally.
A plate traps steam under the bread and softens the crust.
Mayonnaise has a higher smoke point than butter. It browns evenly and spreads to the edges of the bread without tearing it.
One method toasts the inside faces of the bread in butter before the cheese goes in. It also coats the outside with mayonnaise, butter and grated hard cheese for a crisp crust.
Sodium citrate replaces some of the calcium that holds cheese proteins together. The cheese then melts smooth with no fat leak.
Mix some mayonnaise into the soft butter. The butter keeps the taste. The mayonnaise browns more evenly and does not burn as fast. Kewpie also adds MSG.
Press grated Parmesan, or some of the cheddar, onto the buttered outside faces. It fries into a crisp cheese shell.
Spread a thin layer of Dijon mustard on the inside faces. Its sharpness cuts the fat, and it helps keep the cheese emulsified.
Mix a pinch of chipotle powder into the cheese. The smoke then ties the toastie to the tomato soup.
Fry small spoonfuls of the cheese mix in the pan until they are lacy and crisp. Put them on the soup.
Split-can tomato soup with fried paste, confit garlic and chipotle, mounted with butter
Make the soup first and hold it on low. Cook the toasties last.
Split-can tomato soup with fried paste, confit garlic and chipotle, mounted with butter
Tomato soup for 2 from one can of San Marzano tomatoes. Brown the tomato solids and keep the juice raw.
What is actually happening in the dish, and why the techniques work.
Calcium holds the proteins of cheese together. As cheddar ages, its proteins break down into small, tight groups. When heated, these hold on to each other and the fat leaks out as grease.
Emmentaler and low-moisture mozzarella are younger and more elastic. Their protein network stretches around the cheddar fat and holds it in.
Ratio by weight: cheddar 40, Emmentaler 40, mozzarella 20.
Shokupan is made with tangzhong, a cooked flour paste that holds much water. It also holds milk and sugar. Milk sugar and added sugar let the crust brown at a lower temperature than plain bread.
On high heat the crust goes dark before the cheese melts. Medium-low heat for longer lets the heat reach the cheese first.