Jaew Phrik Reaper
The same record, read as a method. This page holds the reasoning; that one holds what to do.
A table sauce that takes its heat from a fat tincture and its aroma from raw chilli flesh. The placentas of six Carolina reapers infuse into 80 ml of oil at 65 degrees C. 30 ml of that tincture goes into this sauce. The other 50 ml is stored. The flesh of one pod, with the placenta removed, is minced raw into the sauce. The tincture on its own has almost no smell. The capsaicin is made in the placenta and the aroma is made in the flesh, so an extraction of one gives none of the other. The raw flesh restores the fruit note. Lime juice and fish sauce give the heat something to hold onto. A neat oil drizzle coats the mouth in one continuous film. A suspension in an acid base arrives in pulses instead. Serve it in a bowl with a teaspoon. One quarter of a teaspoon is one serving.
Capsaicin in pure fat spreads over the mouth as one continuous film that does not break up. The burn is flat and constant and has no shape.
Put the same quantity of capsaicin into an acid water base and the fat breaks into droplets. The capsaicin then arrives in pulses. Between the pulses you taste the sour and the salt. The heat has a shape.
The acid also helps you directly. Sour taste makes you salivate. Saliva is the main way capsaicin is removed from the tissue of the mouth.
The toasted rice powder holds a partial suspension. It does not make a stable emulsion. The sauce separates in the bowl. This is correct for a jaew. Stir it before each use, or the last spoon out of the bowl is neat tincture.
The esters that give Capsicum chinense its apricot and floral smell are small and volatile. They have low boiling points.
Fry that flesh in a paste at 130 degrees C or above and those esters leave or change. Maillard chemistry replaces them with heavier and rounder compounds. In a braise this is a gain. It is where depth comes from.
At the table it is a loss. There you want lift.
So use the same pod in two states. Fry one lot into the paste for depth. Leave one lot raw in the table sauce for the top note. This is not repetition. It is two different chemical states of one fruit.
The same record, read as a method. This page holds the reasoning; that one holds what to do.
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